Ireland's cosmopolitan capital is best known for its exceptional literary past, but that's only one aspect of its charm. Museums and galleries, theatres and concert halls, shops and open-air markets, fine restaurants and pubs all make it one of Europe's most popular destinations, and the friendly atmosphere and genuine Guinness make it nearly impossible to leave.

Considering Ireland's proximity and the low cost of getting there, what are you waiting for?

Finding a place to stay should be no problem at all, as Dublin offers the traveler a wealth of hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs and hostels. The majority of hotels and B&Bs are between the River Liffey and the Grand Canal, which is Dublin's true heart. The area north of the river is where most of the hostels can be found, but isn't exactly the city's finest side.

Varied neighbourhoods give Dublin a cosy, inviting flavour which is only enhanced by the locals. It takes a minimum of effort to meet Dubliners, and few visitors have left without a testimonial to their friendliness (interesting people seem to be one of Ireland's finest natural resources).

Visitors with a literary bent will surely want to trace the footsteps of the many prominent Irish authors, and the tourism board is very much aware of this. Plenty of literary walks and pub-crawls can be found in Dublin, each offering you the chance to stop for a stout at some of the places where history was made by the mere raising of a glass several decades ago. And for those who prefer to pay homage to the literary greats in a more quiet fashion, self-guided tours are cheaper, allow you to set your won pace and keep away from the crazy, camera-toting crowds which some organised tours attract. Both are easy to find through tourist information offices.

On the north side of the city is the Dublin Writer's Museum, with the Irish Writer's Centre next door. The former is a collection of the works and belongings of Yeats, Shaw, Wilde and many more, while the latter is where young poets and authors give readings in hopes of getting their own work next door someday.

Just south of Dublin is perhaps the greatest tribute to an Irish author (with the exception of the Irish £10 note), Joyce Tower. Built in 1804, featured in Ulysses and the site of the James Joyce Museum since 1962, this historic landmark houses an extensive collection of his letters, photos, first editions and possessions.

Art and artefacts are also abundant in Dublin, with world-class collections at the National Gallery and the National Museum of Ireland, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art, located at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham.

Architecture is another of the capital's finest features. From the ancient Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedrals to the spectacular Customs House, Four Courts and King's Inns, Dublin's rich past remains very much alive.

The pinnacle is Trinity College, where several marvelous designs from every period since the college's founding in 1592 meet cobblestone squares and lush gardens to form a fantastic campus. The legendary Book of Kells and an audiovisual history of Dublin are also worth looking at while there.

Across College Street is the lively Temple Bar area, where the cobbled streets continue and the old buildings have been brought to life with a bustling mix of shops, galleries, theatres, restaurants and nightclubs. In Temple Bar, a good time is never hard to find.

Restaurants and cafes come in all flavours and line the streets; nearly all are informal and inexpensive, catering to the chic, avant-gardeners who give the area its style and flair. Nico's or San Marino for Italian food aficionados, Poco Loco and the Rock Garden handle the Mexican, and Tante Zoe's serves up Cajun/Creole with a side of jazz/blues. For pizza with an attitude, try the ever-popular Bad Ass Café.

Nightlife is Temple Bar's strong suit, especially on the weekends when it seems the whole city crams itself into the many pubs and nightclubs. The Norseman Pub, Parliament and Flannery's are among the liveliest, while the Old Oak and Rumpoles are somewhate more subdued.

After last call, The Cactus Club has jazz downstairs, a DJ upstairs and a low cover charge; Bad Bob's Backstage Bar has three floors and long queues, so get there early; Club M (M as in massive) is a multifloor club with five bars and a jacuzzi - see it, believe it, jump in it! The hottest spot in Dublin for live bands, both local and international acts, is the aforementioned Rock Garden.

The shopping in Temple Bar can only be described as eclectic. Everything from second-hand jeans and tarot cards to traditional Irish crystal and silver souvenirs is scattered throughout the colourful stores and stalls. If you're looking for a different shopping experience, open-air markets just across the river at Moore and Henry Streets offer more than just groceries, and fashionable Grafton Street near Trinity College is buzzing with students, locals and tourists well into the evening.

But what article expounding the virtues of Dublin would be complete without mention of the Guinness Brewery and Hop Store? Beware: after a taste of the true brew at its birthplace, you may not want to come home.

Copyright (c) 1995 Nine to Five Magazine

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Eire we go!
Take some time out from Dublin to discover the other sparkling attractions of the Emerald Isle
By Hunter Boyle (Nine to Five Magazine, 03/27/1995)

Right. So when you arrive in Dublin, stop by the good old Guinness Brewery to see how it really tastes, have a bite to eat at Davy Byrnes (made famous by Joyce's Ulysses) or a pint at Doherry and Nesbitt with the local politicians, lawyers and businessmen (it is around the corner from the Irish Parliament), check out Trinity College then get on a bus or train or horse, or just hire a car if you like - but however you do it, head south to Kilkenny.

Along the way to Kilkenny Town, stop by the Dunmore Cave, perhaps the most amazing catacombs in Ireland. The remains of dozens of people who died hiding from the Vikings in 928 AD and the massive limestone formations make this a great half-day trip.

Kilkenny Town is steeped in medieval history, most of which is very well preserved. The Kilkenny Castle and St. Canice's Cathedral both date back to the 13th Century, as does The Black Abbey. All are in fine shape for their age (especially when you consider Cromwell's extensive attempts at "remodelling" the area) and should not be missed. A highlight for those who are up to it is climbing the 100-ft tower next to the St. Canice Cathedral; the view on a clear day is well worth the effort, so put the cigarettes away at least an hour or so in advance and just do it!

Back on the ground, Kilkenny Town offers the visitor ample shopping, with terrific shops to pick up some inexpensive crystal and silver gifts and souvenirs. Besides shopping, there are plenty of good pubs to relax with some real Guinness and engage in the much-heralded Irish tradition: craic, or "crack". Try Edward Langton's, which has deservedly won several awards, and has a very comfortable atmosphere for both food and drink. A night out should include the Arch Tavern and the Pump House Bar; both have live music on weekends and decent DJs the rest of the time. At last call, head to Lautrec's Wine Bar if you want to keep the night going. A classy place, tastefully decorated and with a fine selection of wines and ciders, the Mediterranean atmosphere can almost make you forget you're in Ireland!

After the cosy town of Kilkenny, you should be ready for a slightly larger place to roam around - like Cork, Ireland's second largest city.

Cork never seems that big though, and with plenty ot do and see, it's the perfect blend of big city and small town flavours. A good place for entertainment and shopping, a not-so-good place for sightseeing and history. However, Cork is a central location for plenty of short, interesting day-trips: Blarney, well known for that hunk of stone; Cobh, a small port town with a major maritime history (Titanic, Lusitania, ties to Ellis Island); and Fota Island, with an arboretum and a 70-acre wildlife park (penguins, giraffes, flamingos and kangaroos in Ireland??? Yep!).

Back in the city, the restaurant for exquisite Italian at plebeian prices is Bully's; for an Irish flavour try Kelly's, and there are plenty of cafes to choose from afterwards.

Nightlife in Cork shows just how small the city feels, but can still easily provide a good time no matter what type of place you're looking for. Literary types will almost certainly enjoy the Hi-B bar, with its small, drawing room feel and opera/classical subtly holding up intense conversation. Sports fans will love all of the tellies at the spacious Black Bush, but smart dress is required and rigorously enforced. The Man At Ease is a come-as-you-please, incredibly small hole-in-the-wall, with music that stays in the 70s and a very loud bell that signals last call. The nightclubs to be at are Gorby's and Klub Kaos, and some of the games parlours (pool, snooker, darts, etc) are another alternative for late-night fun.